Monthly Archives: August 2017
Dr Ben Johnson of Osmosis Skincare states….
“It sounds like I may be a lone voice here but I do not think needling is beneficial to the skin in any way. First, it creates several wounds that distract the skin from its normal anti-aging maintenance as it must fix those wounds first. This means less nutrition for the dermis (where aging primarily occurs) as proteins, antioxidants, lipids, and growth factors are utilized in the wound repair.
Second, the process exposes the skin to more free radicals (from a damaged barrier), more moisture loss and environmental toxin exposure. Yes, these wounds partially seal… but not enough.
I understand the story told about the benefits of epidermal turnover… but epidermal turnover when the skin is not provided increased nutrients to handle the new speed/load simply leads to the same epidermis that you started with (if not more compromised than before). In other words, anti-aging is about thickening the dermis not increasing the turnover of the epidermis. Where we are confused is that younger skin does turn over faster, but that reflects the capacity of a healthy dermis to feed that turnover as the two are inseparable.
Ingredient penetration has also been touted with micro-needling. I believe that it is a net neutral effect. The ingredients get in better temporarily but they are pushed out by the inflammatory-driven exfoliation that occurs.
The bottom line is that ANY procedure that damages the skin to get a result is going to weaken the health of the skin over time, not strengthen it. I believe that the only way to true, permanent change in the skin is by strengthening the skin, not poking holes in it. Results created by wounding the skin are ALWAYS temporary and often result in more rapid aging because of the associated immunosuppression that occurs.
I personally used a needle on half of my face for a month and noted that the benefits of plumping associated with needling were short-lived and by mid-morning my needled side looked older than the other side. By the end of the month, I found the needled side to be worse overall as did many witnesses to the process.
I understand that collagen generation is one of the big stories. Remember that any collagen generated by wounding is simply collagen being directed to fix what you just damaged. That collagen production uptick is to replace damaged collagen from the needling so the skin never gets to add it to the dermis and, even worse, the time/materials spent making collagen for the newly created wound means that less collagen is being made for pre-existing sun damage or dermal thickness maintenance.
I look forward to a healthy debate on the subject 🙂
I know Dr. Setterfield and followed his early research and he is a nice, knowledgeable man. However, it is easy to be confused by following what you see on the skin and I think that is the issue with needling. Poking holes in the skin are not “gentle stimulation”. It is a wound as evidenced by the swelling it creates. I appreciate that there are needle depths and protocols to consider but that does not change the fact that everyone is wounded with every poke. I am hearing from you that if you damage the skin just enough to elicit a response…but not too much…you will make it stronger. There is no evidence that that is true and everything we know about our immune system is wounding distracts it from normal operations.
I love the comments about microdermabrasion and lasers as they have proven to have the same issues: temporary tightening/response but no long term gains. We all must remember that the skin is research-proven to never fully recover from a wound (80-90% at best). At some point, we will realize that all of these modalities were a mistake and refocus our attention on rebuilding the immune/remodeling capacity of the skin instead.
I do not think putting pigment in the skin is healthy but it has often proven to be benign.
I’m not familiar with Tripollar specifically but I can give you the risks. Anything that heats fat cells and shrinks them could be an effective non-surgical fat reduction method. However, in the face in particular, but also everywhere else, our subcutaneous fat is a critical source for growth factors and other key components for skin repair. Damaging fat will likely reduce the health of the skin. Case in point, CO2 laser resurfacing has proven to be pro-aging as people get 2-5 years out. This is probably because we cooked their growth factor/immune support components (fat).
As for the “firming effect” of RF….I’m sure it does heat/damage collagen. Where the entire industry is tricking us is that heated collagen does tighten…and then the skin tears it down and replaces it with healthy collagen. Our skin is not like a cotton shirt in the dryer where heat restores proper shape without damaging the cotton. Heat destroys collagen and may cause it to coil up in the process but that is not why your skin tightens. Your skin tightens because of the swelling associated with the tear down of that coiled up (damaged) collagen. Hope that makes sense. For this reason, RF is just another wounding device with temporary results.
Briefly on collagen…the skin knows best. If it is making type III collagen and then converting to type I as the wound process finalizes or whether it is making type I, the skin is acting in the most efficient manner it can to do heal the wound to the best of its ability. So yes, a wound is a wound and collagen stimulation needs to come from ingredients that don’t cause damage 🙂
With any machine, you must ask “what is the mechanism of action?” If they claim to generate collagen but their results last a week and then go away then you know that it is not about the collagen because that takes three weeks to generate. If it claims to work by tightening collagen, that is not really possible. If it claims to enhance oxygen delivery and that makes the skin younger, again check the timelines and ask yourself what excess oxygen does to the skin. Almost every procedure that claims to work by improving collagen production has a result that comes and goes before the collagen manufacturing process really gets started. Either a machine increases delivery of nutrients, improves circulation, increases lymphatic drainage or it damages the skin…there are not many other options. Most of those can create wonderful benefits for the day… that may even last several days, but it is the methodical application of the non-traumatic remedies and their topical counterparts repeatedly that creates long term gains because the skin has a limited capacity to recover and patience is a must 🙂
Just as we understand that to get big biceps we have to work out repeatedly over weeks as opposed to going in one day and doing all those curls over 8 hours. The latter weakens muscles and shrinks growth just as I believe chemical peels and lasers are overkill that weakens and shrink the dermis. We may have to face the reality that quick fixes, especially when it comes to skin that became unhealthy through 40 years of accumulating damage, are likely never going to work”